S c a r l e t Reef: Day 24 (22/6/2011) Add first coral

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Welcome to my reef blog of my new nano reef 12g 'Scarlet Reef'. Strive to bring nano reef hobbyists great information and resources. Read about all the latest goings on of my saltwater aquarium. Please feel free to add comments and links to your own blogs and reef websites. Started May 2011.

Cycling process

Thursday 23 June 2011

Day 24 (22/6/2011) Add first coral

Coral Name : Cup Coral, Green Pagoda (Turbinaria Peltata)

Flourescent under actinic blue light.

Posted by WM IZWAN at 07:45

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Water Parameter

Date/ PH/ Ammonia/ Nitrite/ Nitrate/ SG

2.6.11/ 8.2/ 0/ 0.25/ 5.0/ 1.025
3.6.11/ 8.2/ 0/ 0.25/ 5.0/ 1.025
4.6.11/ 8.2/ 0/ 0.25/ 10/ 1.026
6.6.11/ 8.2/ 0/ 0.5-1/ 5.0/ 1.025
9.6.11/ 8.2/ 0/ 0.25/ 0-5/ 1.026
12.6.11/ 8.2/ 0/ 0/ 0/ 1.025
13.6.11- 50% water change
22.6.11/ 8.2/ 0/ 0/ 0/ 1.025

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WM IZWAN: Ipoh, Perak, Malaysia

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SETTING UP A NANO REEF

Setting up your own nano reef can be quite simple and is almost the same as a traditionally sized reef. This article will go over the basics of setting up a nano reef, as well as the equipment that is necessary.To start, you will need to pick out the aquarium you would like to use. Three good starter sizes are the standard 10 gallon, 15 gallon, or 20 gallon aquariums. Next, you will need to decide on the lighting system you want to use. Powercompact retrofit kits and canopies are highly recommended. These powercompact lamps will provide your nano reef with plenty of light for many types of corals. For the heater, I highly recommend using a 50w or 75w Ebo Jager brand heater, as users of these have consistently had success in such small aquariums. Lastly, you will need a small powerhead pump for circulation. I have found Aquarium System's Mini-Jet pumps to be quiet and reliable, but all other similarly sized pumps will work.For your filtration it's recommended to use an all natural method. Good quality live rock and live sand are the key to a successful system. You will want to use at least one pound of live rock per gallon, and about one-half pounds of live sand per gallon. More information on this can be found in the filtration article.When you look for a location to place your nano reef, you will want to keep a few things in mind. The tank should be placed on a level and sturdy surface that can support approximately 70-250 pounds depending on the size of the tank. You will also want to place it in a high traffic area where it will be seen often, so you do not forget to feed it or do maintenance work when necessary.When the time comes to fill the tank and get it running, you will need to have purchased a good synthetic reef salt and a specific gravity meter. Swing-arm or floating hydrometers can be purchased for under $10 and will provide a basic reading of the specific gravity. A more expensive refractometer is however recommended for highly accurate readings. Fill the tank with water and add salt until the specific gravity is 1.023. Place the powerhead in immediately so it will help mix the salt. Now is also the time to place in your heater and get the water temperature to 78 degrees. Once your s.g. has reached it's proper level, you can add the live rock and live sand. Place the live rock in first, using an open pattern so the fish have room to swim through and hide in the rock. Be as creative as you want during this process and don't be afraid to go back and change it later. Once the rock is where you like it, you can pour the live sand around the rocks, keeping it at a fairly even thickness throughout the tank.

CYCLING YOUR TANK

Every new nano reef must first go through a process that is referred to as "cycling." This involves the creation and growth of the biological filtration that will keep your system alive. The nitrogen cycle will be the most painful waiting period you will have to endure with your new nano reef, but it is vital that the cycle is allowed to complete.

The process begins with the conversion of solid wastes put into the system by fish, into ammonia. In a cycled system there are bacteria known as nitrifiers that transform the toxic ammonia into less toxic products. The ammonia is transformed into nitrites which are then converted into nitrates. Nitrate removal is done via the weekly partial water changes of 10-20%.

When a new aquarium system is created, these bacterial colonies are not immediately present. They will be introduced into your system when your liverock is added and will grow within the porous rock. The process that triggers the cycle into starting is kind of like a reverse process. There will be denitrifying bacteria present on the rock that you add, but there will be no waste available to feed them. As the bacteria and other life dies off on the rock, ammonia will be created. This new ammonia feeds the remaining bacteria, which will then start the cycle process. Other methods may be used to start the process sooner, such as adding a small piece of uncooked shrimp, that will decay into ammonia.

The amount of time that the cycle is going to take in a new system is difficult to predict. On average, it can take anywhere from two weeks to a month. If the rock is 'uncured', it may take longer for the existing die off to decay. If the rock is 'pre-cured' or 'cured', then the cycle process should complete quicker.

So what should you do during the cycle? Keep your lights running on their regular 10-12 hour schedule. Do not cycle your tank with the lights off, unless you want the life on the live rock to die off. Do not perform any partial water changes during the the process, as doing so will stall the cycle from completing. Some people have experimented with doing very small water changes during the cycle to keep the ammonia levels from getting extremely high. The thought behind this method is that it will help preserve the life that came on your live rock. The benefits, if any, are not well known at this time however.

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